A short story of Gwlân Cambrian Wool.
Our Background
A Royal Initiative
The background to Cambrian Mountains CIC goes back to 2008, when the King was a supporter and promoter of Cambrian Mountains Initiative (CMI), one of four rural initiatives aimed at supporting and developing the upland farming economies of Mid Wales, Dartmoor, the Peak District and The North Highlands. The King a attended the launch event of Cambrian Wool at Nanteos Mansion, where the work of the winners of an international competition using Cambrian Wool were presented.
Sorting Welsh from British
In Mid Wales the Initiative began work with local farmers to market lamb and started to explore how best to make the most of wool. Seminars were commissioned, organised by Suzi Park of the Textiles Technology Project at Coleg Sir Gar, to try and find out what interest there would be in ‘doing something about wool’ and what that ‘something’ could be.
At the time of the project, under UK law, all wool was to be collected by the British Wool Marketing Board where it lost identity as Welsh Wool and became British Wool, unless special exemption is given for certain breeds. The only commercial scouring and spinning mill in Wales had recently been sold on the owners’ retirement and removed to Cornwall, leaving a gap in the Welsh supply chains.
The results of discussions were many and varied, the answer remained unclear. In the meantime, submissions were invited for products to carry the Cambrian Mountains label. For wool, makers had to be able to prove they used wool traceable to the region. Sue James of Llynfi Textiles had knitwear – using wool from Juliet Morris at Ystrad Farm – accepted into the scheme in 2011. A small working group was subsequently formed in autumn 2012 of those who had remained in touch and still doggedly talking about possibilities.
Still the wider answer remained elusive although it was agreed that the priority was making the most of the actual wool, rather than trying to set up Welsh processing facilities which would be prohibitively expensive. It was accepted that the best return for the region would be by commercial marketing of the wool to contribute to raising the profile of the region generally. At the time, the legalities of the UK wool market meant that it was impossible to increase returns directly to Welsh farmers for their wool, as payments for any particular grade are divided across the whole of the UK.
Welsh Wool in Production
An opportunity was presented in 2014 to carry out a Feasibility Study to look at the possibilities of bringing wool produced in the region, back into Wales as yarns for knit and weave in commercial and repeatable (and traceable) quantities, so enabling wider access to it via the remaining weaving mills, as well as individual makers and crafters. With the co-operation of the British Wool Marketing Board and Curtis Wools Direct, we launched the study by challenging designers to use the tops, yarns and fabrics that were being trialled. The resulting collection was toured as an exhibition to gauge interest, and with much success.
Roll onto February 2016 and Cambrian Mountains Wool CIC was at last incorporated with Suzi Park, Sue James, and Jude Howard as Directors. Since then, Juliet, Jude and Sue have moved onto other things but their input into the project were invaluable and key to its success. Thanks are also due to the Cambrian Mountains Initiative and its staff over time, particularly Carly Butler (now Cooke), Aled Jones and Nicole Aarons, the continued encouragement of the BWMB, Curtis Wools and Melin Tregwynt.
New Directions
In December 2022 Suzi, now the sole Director of the company, made the difficult decision to dissolve the Community Interest Company and change the status to a sole trader. Believing this to be the best possible way to keep the business afloat, she financed the next season’s fibre purchase herself with support from family and friend donations.
Suzi continues her wool journey and expects that the business will go from strength to strength, raising awareness of this wonderful product and bringing further prosperity to farmers, makers and industry in Wales.
Read about our latest project where we produced our own 100% Welsh wool fabric to create blankets and scarves.